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Product Description Rated power:93/67/46W Inlet/Outlet:G 3/4'' Max flow:2.7GPM Max head:20/16/13FT Voltage/Freq:115V/60Hz Application: Used in Suitable for city buildings, suburban villas, houses, water and pressurized with...

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Clarence, New York (PRWEB) November 15, 2011

USABirdSupply.com offers bird gift ideas for the winter months ahead. Climate changes are affecting birds and where they winter. According to Audubon analyses, many species are moving north to winter, reflecting global warming. Purple Finches and Wild Turkeys have moved 400+ miles north in the last 40 years, while the Marbled Murrelets, Ring-Billed Gulls, Red-Breasted Mergansers, and Spruce Grouse have moved 300-360 miles north. Pine Suskins, Fox Sparrows, Boreal Chickadees and House Finches have moved 250+ miles north.

However, some species are not moving north, to their detriment, as their habitat becomes drier. This includes the burrowing owl, the meadowlark, whose population has declined 72% in the last 40 years, the vesper sparrow and generally grassland species.

Living in Southern California, Florida, or the Southern US, winter might mean swing temperatures from the low 40’s to 70’s. In the northern part of the US, the winter means very cold weather and snow.

USABirdSupply.com Offers 10 Bird Gift Ideas For Winter

1. Winter Shelters – Picture blowing wind, horizontal snow, bitter cold and weighing less than one ounce. Placing winter shelters facing south ideally under eaves, in a safe area from predators and protected from the wind and heavy snowfalls can provide huddled birds warmth and protection from the environment. USABirdSupply.com offers winter shelters for birds and is a great gift.

2. Winter Roosting Boxes– Roosting boxes allow small birds to huddle together for warmth. They differ from a bird house in that the hole is at the bottom rather than the middle or top to reduce heat loss. They also have perches inside allowing many birds to huddle. Place the box facing south, in a protected area, safe from predators and relatively close to feeders. Hang out nesting materials and the birds will stuff them inside the box for additional warmth. Chickadees, wrens, titmice, and woodpeckers will use a roosting box. The box should be about 12 feet off the ground. A metal or slate guard around the hole will help deter squirrels. After the holidays, Christmas trees can be placed outside for a shelter as well.

3. Heated Bird Baths – Birds require fresh water for drinking and bathing year round. A heated bird bath or heating element placed in an existing bird bath will encourage birds to frequent feeders as they will have access to both food and water. While birds do eat snow, it reduces their body heat. USABirdSupply.com offers pedestal as well as deck- EZ-tilt heated bird baths. In the warmer US regions, having a bird bath year round near feeders provides an ideal bird watching environment.

4. Suet - Suet is a high energy food with a high fat content that helps keep birds warm. Having a window suet feeder, hanging suet feeder or suet log is essential for winter bird feeding. There are numerous varieties of suet including hot pepper. The hot pepper taste deters squirrels but not birds. Chickadees, nuthatches, blue jays as well as woodpeckers will be attracted to suet. Bluebirds, warblers, kinglets, titmice, and wrens prefer suet with small seeds. USABirdSupply.com offers a wide variety of suet feeders and types of suet.

5. Bird Seed – Seeds with high fat or oil content provide energy and should be selected based on the types of birds that winter in your area. These would include black oil sunflower seeds, nyjer, white millet, and peanuts. To reduce waste and have no-mess, buy hulled seeds in the winter.

6. Striped vs. Oil Sunflower Seeds – Oil sunflower seeds have more oil than striped sunflower, are smaller and have a thinner shell which is easier to open. Striped sunflower seeds are larger with a thicker shell. While most birds such as cardinals, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice and blue jays eat either type, sparrows and blackbirds have a harder time opening striped sunflower seeds.

7. Feeder Placement - Ground Feeders for southern areas that do not have snow in the winter attract juncos, brown thrashers, towhees, and sparrows. In areas with more challenging winters, the bird feeders should be placed out of the wind and should have the area beneath them cleaned of snow so the ground feeders can eat. Hopper and platform feeders attract cardinals, blue jays, chickadees, and titmice.

8. Cleaning Feeders And Bird Baths Before Winter – Before it gets too cold, clean and sterilize the feeder to reduce mold and get rid of old seed. Use gloves and a stiff brush. Feeders should be cleaned once a month. To clean the feeder there are several methods: one part bleach to nine parts hot water, mild unscented dish detergent in solution, or 4 parts water to 1 part white vinegar. Scrub and rinse thoroughly. Fill when completely dry. The same ratios can be used for bird baths. Also clean the area below feeders with a broom or shovel and hose down. There are also long cleaning brushes and easy-clean tube feeders with removable bottoms. USABirdSupply.com offers cleaning brushes, easy clean tube bird feeders, and bottled bird bath and bird house cleaners.

9. Bird Feeder Rain Guards – Rain guards, which in some cases double as a squirrel baffle, protect tube feeders which do not have a cover over feeding ports. Guards help with rain (in warmer regions) and snow in colder areas.

10. Squirrel Proof Feeders and Baffles - Using hot pepper suet and red cayenne/hot pepper in feed helps deters squirrels (but not birds). Squirrel proof feeders come in a variety of styles—weight activated, tube feeders in wire cages, and battery operated feeders that flip, tip and whip squirrels off the feeder. Safflower, nyjer seed and natural and hot pepper suet are not favorites of squirrels. Baffles can also be effective for feeders and when mounted on top protects the seed from rain and snow.

USABirdSupply.com is Located in Clarence, NY Outside Buffalo And Offers Over 1100 Bird Products Including Squirrel Proof Feeders, Hummingbird Feeders, Purple Martin Houses & Gourds, Bird Feeders, Bird Houses, Bird Baths, Garden Art, Bat & Owl Houses, Garden Flags, Butterfly Feeders, Live Mason Bees, and Honey Bee Supplies.

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Snuggle Safe Microwave Heat Pad is great for heating pet beds. Up to 12 hours of longlasting warmth Your pets will love the warmth of Snuggle Safe Thermapool at home or traveling. Heat in microwave for only 5 minutes (depending on power of...

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Setting Up Aquariums: Where Do I Start?

Aquarium equipment

To set up fish tank aquariums you will need this equipment: filter, lighting, heater, gravel, plants and décor. You will also want replacement filter media and aquarium test kits to examine water parameters and monitor the nitrogen cycle. I enthusiastically advise buying entire system fish tank aquariums which come with all the necessary aquarium equipment. This means you are not confused as to what precisely you need for setting up your fish tank or bewildered by the range of numerous types of equipment for sale. Purchasing tank aquariums with all you want gives you peace of mind and relieves a lot of pressure!

Establishing your aquarium

Before buying an aquarium you need to decide on the space you have free and investigate the adult size of the fish you want to keep, both of which will suggest the size and shape of aquarium that would be suitable. Considering all this has been carefully designed and your perfect aquarium is sitting with all the essential equipment ready to be set up, you can follow these steps to stress-free successful aquarium setup.

1. Position aquarium (on a stand, if needed) in an area away from direct sunlight, draughts and heat, as these alter the light and temperature of the fish tank. Also make certain that the floor is able to support the total weight of the aquarium when filled with water (approximately 10 pounds per gallon of water).

2. Rinse out the aquarium with water as hot as you can tolerate. Do not use detergents or soaps as residue will be detrimental to tropical fish.

3. Position the under-gravel filter in the bottom of the fish tank (if your aquarium comes with one), following the instructions included.

4. Wash the gravel thoroughly in hot water using a sieve to take out any dust or debris. Add the gravel to the aquarium, covering the under-gravel filter. Create a gentle slope of gravel, deepest at the back.

5. Wash all artificial decorations and plants in hot water and arrange in the fish tank.

6. Fasten the aquarium heater to the inside of the tank with its suction cups but do not plug it in for at least 30 minutes until the thermostat has adjusted to the water temperature, otherwise the heater may shatter. Obviously, you need to have researched the species you anticipate to keep to learn about specific temperature requirements.

7. Set up the aquarium filter following the instructions enclosed, placing the filter media inside.

8. Put a dish on the bottom of the aquarium to break the force of the water and fill the aquarium with water that is at room temperature. Add de-chlorinator to the water if you are using tap water that is unfiltered. Look for any rare leaks as you fill the tank. (They are easily repaired with aquarium silicone).

9. Unless the lighting of the aquarium is previously fitted underwater, place the light on top.

10. Plug in all the equipment and check that everything is working correctly. Ensure there is a dip in the cord before it reaches the electrical outlet, known as a 'drip loop'. This ensures the water drips off onto the floor and does not pass directly into the electrical socket.

Your aquarium is now ready to run in its self but is still not ready for sustaining freshwater fish. Beneficial bacteria needs to be established first, and the aquarium environment then needs to change as new fish are gradually added.

How to proceed after initial aquarium setup

Allow the tank to settle and the water stabilize for some days. During this time you should keep monitoring the water parameters using aquarium test kits to ensure they are ideal for the fish you intend to have (temperature, pH, hardness, and ammonia).

Nitrogen cycle

You will then need to begin the nitrogen cycle so your fish tank will be ready to support healthy tropical fish (see related article 'Setting-Up Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums: The Nitrogen Cycle').

Aquarium care

When the nitrogen cycle is finished and you start adding fish to your fish tank, you should start on a maintenance plan. Each day make sure that fish are healthy, especially during feeding times, and make sure that the filters and heaters are functioning properly. Wash your tank every one to two weeks and carry out 25% water changes once a month.

http://www.tropical-fish.me

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After your cat has used its cat bed for a while, it will need to be cleaned. They may get their dirty paws on the bed or they may salivate on it. They are also likely to shed their hair on the bed. Cleaning cat beds will get rid of the dirt and freshen the bed up so that it smells good again. So, if you are spending a lot of time keeping our homes spic and span, particularly when there are four-footed friends to constantly clean up after. So it can be quite disturbing to see the way your pet's dirty since it's his fortress, and too often it's a cat bed covered with mud, hair, salivate and something that smells deviously like the pile of trash your cat was rubbing himself in your yard.

Cat beds come in all shapes and sizes - some are covered with a slipcover and other kitty nests are piled high with blankets. Learning how to clean cat beds is very easy as 1-2-3:

Cleaning The Foam

€ If you've got a foam cat bed, unzip the cover, take it outside and shake out as much of the hair and dust as you can. If any hair remains, try once-over with a lint roller.

€ Next, soak the cover in the sink in a hot water for 10 minutes before you wash it with soap to kill any bacteria that could possibly creep around. Squeeze the water out and wash it with soap.

€ Vacuum the cat bed thoroughly to get any dust or hair that may have left.

€ Fill your sink with hot water and some mild detergent (don't use the same water you washed the cover in!). Once the water is warm enough to be bearable, use your hands to work the soap into the foam and perhaps put something heavy on it to hold it down while it soaks.

€ Drain it and top-up the tub with clean water. Don't forget to squeeze the cat bed to get the soap out - keep at it until all the soapsuds are gone.

€ Don't put it in the dryer - that could shrink the cover.

Urinated Cat Bed

1. If the urine is new, blot up as much of it as you can use paper towels or a sponge. Apply amply of pressure to reach the succulence deep down. Stand on the paper towels for more pressure if necessary. If you own a wet/dry vacuum cleaner extract as much of the moisture as you can.

2. Mix a solution of 50% vinegar and 50% water in a container. Pour a small amount of this solution over the area of cat urine. I used about 50mls. Then start blotting as described above to soak up this solution.

3. Dash a baking soda over the area.

4. Mix a quarter of a cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide with a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent and drizzle it over the area where you have sprinkled the baking powder and work it in using your fingers or use a brush. Allow fifteen minutes for the solution to work and then begin blotting again.

Caution: Do not use hydrogen peroxide that is stronger than 3%.

5. The cushion must now be left to dry carefully. A good sign is when the baking soda feels totally dry. Then vacuum up the baking soda thoroughly. Use a hard bristled brush to loosen up the baking soda if needed.

That's all there is to it. It's as easy as that!

Aquarium equipment

To set up tropical freshwater fish tank aquariums you will need this equipment: filter, heater, lighting, gravel, plants and dcor. You will also need replacement filter media and aquarium test kits to assess water parameters and check the nitrogen cycle. I enthusiastically recommend buying whole system aquariums which come with all the vital aquarium equipment. This means you are not bewildered as to what exactly you need for setting up your aquarium or bewildered by the array of different types of equipment for sale. Purchasing tank aquariums with all you want gives you peace of mind and relieves a lot of hassle!

Setting up your aquarium

Before purchasing an aquarium you must decide on the room you have free and research the adult size of the fish you want to keep, both of which will show the size and shape of fish tank that would be suitable. Considering all this has been carefully designed and your ideal fish tank is there with all the necessary equipment ready to be set up, you can follow these steps to hassle-free successful aquarium setup.

1.Place aquarium (on a stand, if needed) in an area away from direct sunlight, draughts and heat, as these change the light and temperature of the tank. Also make certain that the floor is able to carry the full weight of the fish tank when filled with water (approximately 10 pounds per gallon of water).

2.Rinse out the aquarium with water as hot as you can tolerate. Do not use detergents or soaps as residue will be detrimental to tropical fish.

3.Put the under-gravel filter in the bottom of the aquarium (if your aquarium comes with one), following the instructions included.

4.Clean the gravel thoroughly in hot water using a sieve to eliminate any dust or debris. Add the gravel to the tank, covering the under-gravel filter. Create a gentle slope of gravel, deepest at the back.

5.Rinse all artificial plants and decorations in hot water and display in the aquarium.

6.Fix the aquarium heater to the inside of the tank with its suction cups but do not plug it in for at least 30 minutes until the thermostat has adjusted to the water temperature, otherwise the heater may break. Obviously, you need to have researched the species you plan to keep to learn about specific temperature needs.

7.Set up the aquarium filter according to the instructions included, putting the filter media inside.

8.Rest a dish on the bottom of the aquarium to break the power of the water and fill the fish tank with water that is at room temperature. Add de-chlorinator to the water if you are using unfiltered tap water. Check for any rare leaks as you fill the fish tank. (They are easily repaired with aquarium silicone).

9.Unless the lighting of the aquarium is previously fitted underwater, put the light on top.

10.Plug in all the equipment and ensure that everything is working correctly. Make sure there is a dip in the cord before it reaches the electrical outlet, known as a 'drip loop'. This ensures the water drips off onto the floor and does not run directly into the electrical socket.

Your aquarium is now ready to run in its self but is still not ready for supporting tropical freshwater fish. Beneficial bacteria needs to be established first, and the aquarium atmosphere then needs to alter as new fish are gradually added.

How to continue after initial aquarium setup

Allow the tank to settle and the water stabilize for some days. Throughout this time you should keep monitoring the water parameters using aquarium test kits to guarantee they are proper for the fish you propose to have (temperature, pH, hardness, and ammonia).

Nitrogen cycle

You will then need to begin the nitrogen cycle so your aquarium will be ready to sustain healthy freshwater fish (see related article 'Setting-Up Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums: The Nitrogen Cycle').

Aquarium upkeep

When the nitrogen cycle is finished and you start adding fish to your fish tank, you should initiate a maintenance schedule. Daily ensure that fish are healthy, especially during feeding times, and ensure that the filters and heaters are operating correctly. Clean your fish tank every one to two weeks and carry out 25% water changes once a month.

Copyright 2009 Jill Kaestner @ Kaestner Marketing LLC