1) Realistic Looking INSTANT REEF #R012 Artificial Coral Reef Aquarium Decor for Saltwater and Freshwater Fish Aquariums. Packed with GORGEOUS life-like corals, artificial live rock base covered with purple, pink and red coralline algae. 2) Get...

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A submersible heater is an intricate part of every aquarium setup. Temperature fluctuations may cause stress from your fish and coral. A minimum of 3-5 watts per gallon is recommended in keeping your aquarium at optimal temperature level. The use...

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The Coralife Super Luft Air Pump produces a high-pressure output perfect for protein skimmers, ozone/oxygen reactors and other high-pressure/high-flow devices. Also suitable for limewood and other airstones, foam filters, corner filters,...

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The Finnex low iron aquarium includes all that is need to establish a beautiful aquarium. Built with low iron glass panels offers users a high definition crystal clear view of their inhabitants. Included is a Finnex PF-5 Power Filter which offers...

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Freshwater aquarium algae are threats to aquatic life in a fish tank. They adapt well in an enclosed environment where there are available nutrients. They compete with aquarium plants for nutrients and decaying algae consume dissolved oxygen in the water. If they are present in small area of the aquarium, they can be supplements for some fish species but if uncontrolled, they contaminate water fast because they are short-lived. In general, all types of algae can have some benefits to aquatic life as long as they do not compete by multiplying rapidly.

Some algae species are edible like many of the seaweeds and they are sources of food in many parts of the world. There are hundreds of edible species and they are found to contain vitamins and minerals. They are also being processed as fertilizers and livestock feed. Algaculture is the study of farming algae for intentional purposes, which is a kind of aguaculture. In freshwater aquariums, there are quite a number of algae and they survive through the nutrients in the water. In some cases freshwater aquarium algae serve as food for aquarium inhabitants like shrimps and snails but if their growth is not controlled, they could be a threat to other aquatic life.

Commonly found in new aquarium setups are the brown algae. They also flourish in low-light aquariums where phosphate level is high while the nitrogen is low. They are a slimy and soft algae that are found in the aquarium glass, in the substrate, and even in decorations. It has been observed that brown algae go away in the presence of strong lights but may still remain in shadowy areas of the tank. In contrast, the green spot algae thrive in aquariums with strong light. They appear as green spots on aquarium plants and the tank glass. This type of freshwater aquarium algae is hard and appears if phosphate and carbon dioxide levels are low.

The hair algae and thread algae appear as strings in the water. They grow in aquarium tanks if there are excess amounts of iron. They can easily be removed by twirling a toothbrush around them. Thread algae grows on leaves of plants and normally found on leaf edges and can reach lengths of 30 cm. Hair algae usually grow at the base of plants and all over substrate and sometimes on decoration. They have green-gray color and grow to about 4 cm. Most aquarists welcome hair algae because fish like Angels and Barbs consume them as supplements to their food. Freshwater aquarium shrimps like the caridina japonica consume the algae in the likes of the thread algae.

A kind of algae that enhance the look of a tank is the beard algae. These types of algae form carpet like covering on pieces of stones bogwood, and slow growing plant leaves. Closer to light sources, they are created. They are soft and slippery and rapidly grow to a maximum of 3 cm. Beard algae need a stable constant light source and an lack of nutrient balance in your aquarium to get the perfect conditions they like. They are common in aquariums without plants and can be very difficult to remove manually. By putting fish in your tank that eat algea, you are instantly reducing the effect that algea can have on your tank which is a popular methed of control. Fish like the Rosy barbs, Siamese algae eaters, and Plecos would be a great help in reducing them. Before introducing them to the existing species in tank, make sure that they are compatible tank mates for the inhabitants presently in your tank. If they can not adapt to the present aquarium setup, they have little use in controlling the beard algae.

Freshwater aquarium algae in tiny patches add color and life to the aquatic ecosystem. Aside from serving as food for some aquatic life, they provide a sort of hiding place for fish fry. They are also good indicator that there is an imbalance in the system. They can show that there may be an excess of nutrients in the water. Excess nutrients may indicate that there is an overfeeding of fish and that an unhealthy plant is excreting some nutrients. Harm to certain plants and your fish are often indicated by the presence of algae and is often a sign to beware of danger in your tank.

The growth of freshwater aquarium algae depends on the existing conditions inside the tank. Three ways that algae can thrive in an enclosed ecosystem within your aqaurium. These necessities are water, light, and nutrients that are basic in all aquariums. Controlling these sources of life for algae is the major step in preventing them to grow and cause some damage. Light can be controlled by placing the aquarium far from the sunlight and artificial light must not be used more than eight hours per day. The light must also not be too bright and an automatic switch with a timer should be installed.

Aquarium fish eating habits are different in every species. In controlling phosphate levels that serve as food for algae, it is more practical to feed them with less than to overfeed. If fish have eaten and there are excess foods in the water, remove them immediately. Aside from removing floating wastes and excess foods in the water, changing part of the water will reduce the chances of phosphate and nitrate build up. Change at least 10 to 15% of the water once a week and scrape off any algae sticking on the glass at the same time. Testing the water from time to time is a good monitoring practice. You must stop algae grownth and you do this by destroying the perfect conditions that support their grownth in your tank


Saltwater Fish and Reef Tanks is the premier source of information for new and experienced saltwater aquarium owners. If you want a happy, stable, colorful, and healthy saltwater fish tank, you need to read this book. The author is a long-time...

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Setting Up Aquariums: Where Do I Start?

Aquarium equipment

To set up fish tank aquariums you will need this equipment: filter, lighting, heater, gravel, plants and d├ęcor. You will also want replacement filter media and aquarium test kits to examine water parameters and monitor the nitrogen cycle. I enthusiastically advise buying entire system fish tank aquariums which come with all the necessary aquarium equipment. This means you are not confused as to what precisely you need for setting up your fish tank or bewildered by the range of numerous types of equipment for sale. Purchasing tank aquariums with all you want gives you peace of mind and relieves a lot of pressure!

Establishing your aquarium

Before buying an aquarium you need to decide on the space you have free and investigate the adult size of the fish you want to keep, both of which will suggest the size and shape of aquarium that would be suitable. Considering all this has been carefully designed and your perfect aquarium is sitting with all the essential equipment ready to be set up, you can follow these steps to stress-free successful aquarium setup.

1. Position aquarium (on a stand, if needed) in an area away from direct sunlight, draughts and heat, as these alter the light and temperature of the fish tank. Also make certain that the floor is able to support the total weight of the aquarium when filled with water (approximately 10 pounds per gallon of water).

2. Rinse out the aquarium with water as hot as you can tolerate. Do not use detergents or soaps as residue will be detrimental to tropical fish.

3. Position the under-gravel filter in the bottom of the fish tank (if your aquarium comes with one), following the instructions included.

4. Wash the gravel thoroughly in hot water using a sieve to take out any dust or debris. Add the gravel to the aquarium, covering the under-gravel filter. Create a gentle slope of gravel, deepest at the back.

5. Wash all artificial decorations and plants in hot water and arrange in the fish tank.

6. Fasten the aquarium heater to the inside of the tank with its suction cups but do not plug it in for at least 30 minutes until the thermostat has adjusted to the water temperature, otherwise the heater may shatter. Obviously, you need to have researched the species you anticipate to keep to learn about specific temperature requirements.

7. Set up the aquarium filter following the instructions enclosed, placing the filter media inside.

8. Put a dish on the bottom of the aquarium to break the force of the water and fill the aquarium with water that is at room temperature. Add de-chlorinator to the water if you are using tap water that is unfiltered. Look for any rare leaks as you fill the tank. (They are easily repaired with aquarium silicone).

9. Unless the lighting of the aquarium is previously fitted underwater, place the light on top.

10. Plug in all the equipment and check that everything is working correctly. Ensure there is a dip in the cord before it reaches the electrical outlet, known as a 'drip loop'. This ensures the water drips off onto the floor and does not pass directly into the electrical socket.

Your aquarium is now ready to run in its self but is still not ready for sustaining freshwater fish. Beneficial bacteria needs to be established first, and the aquarium environment then needs to change as new fish are gradually added.

How to proceed after initial aquarium setup

Allow the tank to settle and the water stabilize for some days. During this time you should keep monitoring the water parameters using aquarium test kits to ensure they are ideal for the fish you intend to have (temperature, pH, hardness, and ammonia).

Nitrogen cycle

You will then need to begin the nitrogen cycle so your fish tank will be ready to support healthy tropical fish (see related article 'Setting-Up Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums: The Nitrogen Cycle').

Aquarium care

When the nitrogen cycle is finished and you start adding fish to your fish tank, you should start on a maintenance plan. Each day make sure that fish are healthy, especially during feeding times, and make sure that the filters and heaters are functioning properly. Wash your tank every one to two weeks and carry out 25% water changes once a month.